Hair Evolution

In April of this year, I celebrated three years since traveling to New York City to train at Devachan Salon. I can't estimate how many curly heads I've worked on since then, but I can say that every one has been unique and a gift.

As I've grown as a stylist I've also worked to keep rooted in what inspires me to do hair, beyond the creative outlet. Helping my clients to feel like and BE their authentic selves is absolutely paramount to my work. When I talk to clients about my background in feminism and social justice and how it plays into hair, they all get it. This is not some abstract concept that you have to deconstruct piece by piece to understand. Our hair is part of who we are, and- like it or not- it is a signifier of many things about us. Most of us desire to have our outside be a reflection of our inner self in the day-to-day, even if it's an ever-evolving and revolving self.

This leads into why I also LOVE working on clients who identify as genderqueer, trans, butch, femme, andro, or anything above and beyond a dualistic gender code. It's a feeling that a lot of curly clients can relate to-- walking into a salon and having the stylist judge you, judging your hair, your appearance, your voice, your clothing. I pledge every day to make my chair a safe and welcoming space. Every client is entitled the full realization of her/his authentic self, no exceptions.

I'm writing this particular post partly because it is Pride month (and I'm further inspired) and partly because it simply needs to be said: Your hair is your right. Whether curly, straight, wavy, mixed, textured, short, long, avant-garde, classic, professional, casual, butch, femme, genderqueer, whatnot-- your hair is YOUR RIGHT.

Enjoy it and celebrate it. :)

CurLab- New adventures in cutting...

As I teach curly cutting to the stylist's at East 42nd Street Salon, I am always looking for ways to expand upon the basic method of dry cutting.

I developed CurLab as a service to help develop the curriculum, offered to regular curly clients as a "lab" environment on cutting.

I recently cut a head of curls in CurLab for the first time using a wet technique that I call "ribboning." It was daunting cutting a head of curls wet-- but I am a FIRM believer in expanding beyond one's comfort from time to time, and I now know enough about how to read a head of curls to accurately predict bounce-back on a wet head. This is a technique I would NOT use on every client-- but for certain effects, it could be quite useful.

Essentially the hair is well-prepped beforehand. The hair is thoroughly detangled and the curls are allowed to bounce into their natural coils. The curls MUST be intact to do a proper wet cut-- this is crucial. One goes through the head, curl by curl, and makes a very clean cut at a precise angle at the bottom of the ribbon.

The advantage of this method is that it works extremely well on hair that tends to coil into itself easily (strong ringlets or loose ropes, etc). It also allows for a very, very clean and defined shape.

I am a believer in the magic and simplicity of the dry cut, and I don't expect to change my thinking on this. But it was good for the brain to meander around a bit and try something new.

And the client was happy at the end, which is what is ultimately important.

I'm curious to see the grow-out in two months time...

Til next time... hair peace. :)

Long time, no post...

First of all, my humblest of apologies for leaving my blog dormant for so long. Many, many things have happened in the six months since I last posted, foremost among them being...

1) Our first round of C-Curve: Curly Curriculum was completed, and two of our salon's stylists are building their own curly clientele! I learned a GREAT deal my first time out, and was even more prepared for...

2) The beginning of our 2nd C-Curve: Curly Curriculum class! We are right in the middle of our next round of the 10-week class, and it's going wonderfully well. We have three new stylists on board, and they are eagerly absorbing all the curly ins and outs.

3) I am now pretty much in charge of our salon's twitter, facebook, and website blog. I'm constantly looking for new things to add every day-- so much to talk about! If you are interested in staying in touch with East 42nd Street Salon via these networks, here's the info:

Facebook link: http://www.facebook.com/pages/Minneapolis-MN/East-42nd-Street-Salon/254672280267?ref=ts

Twitter link: http://twitter.com/E42Salon

Salon blog: http://e42salon.blogspot.com/

4) I have set up my LinkedIn profile at http://www.linkedin.com/pub/carolyn-long/1a/793/788. If you have a LinkedIn account, feel free to add me to your network.

I hope to stay much more current with this blog, as I always have a LOT to say. :) So stay tuned and thanks for reading!

Slooooooow Down

Whenever I get a new client, one of my main focuses is teaching her or him how to wash, condition, and style her hair independently. My thinking is that I see her maybe 4-6 times a year, and she is on her own for the remaining 360-odd days.

The hardest lesson to impart is to SLOW DOWN in terms of how we treat our hair. Most of us are much too aggressive in the shower, agitating our scalp and hair much too much and furthering problems such as frizz. What we do in the shower does effect how our hair will look once it dries.

A slow, deliberate, circular massaging motion on the scalp is all it takes to cleanse the scalp. A cleanser needs only be scrunched into the hair itself in order to break up product; there is no need to "scrub" the lengths.

Conditioning is much the same. Once conditioner is applied, work through slowly with your fingers or a wide-tooth comb. Once hair has been detangled and the hair feels slick and "noodly," gently scrunch the conditioner into the lengths to cultivate your curl. You are essentially re-setting your hair when you wet it down; this is the time to help reshape your curls. It helps to either lean from side to side to let the hair fall freely from the scalp, or to bend forward at the waist while detangling and scrunching. Rinse with COOL water.

When you scrunch-blot your hair, again--SLOW IT DOWN. One should do this without a sense of rush. Don't over-blot and make sure to leave a bit of water in the hair to better aid in application of a styler.

When applying your styler (gel, leave-in moisturizer, hair dressing) work from the ends up, in a similar fashion as you would your conditioner, scrunching slowing from ends to scalp. You should hear a definite "squish" sound as the styler is integrated into your curls. When the product has left your hands, you're done. Don't overwork your curls.

It is crucial to bear in mind that slowing things down takes practice, as we are used to (often) feeling rushed when getting ready. It may not feel completely natural at first to be this gentle with your hair, but give it time and a bit of patience. It may seem like you're spending longer on your hair because you're moving more slowly. In actuality, it takes less time utilizing a gentler, more methodical approach, as your motions are simplified and you spend less time futzing with your hair. Eliminate your wasted motion.

Each day you will become more and more familiar with how your hair feels at certain points along the process of cleansing, conditioning, towel-blotting, and styling. You are basically getting to know your hair all over again. :)

The News!!

Ok, the news is coming a bit early. :)

As of tomorrow, August 1st, I will be the new Curly Education Director at East 42nd Street Salon.

What does this mean?

I will be developing a curriculum to teach the junior stylists on how to cut, color, and care for curly hair. I also will be in charge of product research, trends, and will have many more opportunities to improve my own education.

I will still be working behind the chair as a stylist on the same days as I have been previously.

Although my training at Devachan Salon will be part of the developing curriculum, it will be but one piece of a much larger focus on how to truly understand and appreciate curly hair and the clients who have it. :)

What does this mean to YOU??

I need your input!

I have learned just as much (if not more) working with each and every one of my clients than in all of my formal training in curly hair. Below is a very short questionnaire, asking you your basic impressions of stylists who have worked on your hair, past and present. I feel I would be highly remiss to not consult the heart of the matter -- the curly client -- when writing this curriculum.

Please send your responses to carolyn.east42ndstreet@gmail.com, and thank you in advance!

I am very, VERY excited about this opportunity and greatly appreciate the chance to take what I love to the next level. :)

Peace and love.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Curly Client Questionnaire

1. What do you think is the first mistake a stylist makes when cutting your hair?

2. How would you rate the average stylist’s product knowledge when it comes to daily curly hair care?

3. What is your biggest fear when it comes to seeing a new stylist, in terms of how your hair will look at the end of the service?

4. Has a stylist ever told you to wear your hair straight? If so, why do you think she/he suggested this?

5. Give me three words that describe how you wish your hair to be treated by a stylist as a curly client.

If there is any additional input you would like to share, please do!!

Exciting News Forthcoming....

I plan to have something to announce to the blog on Saturday or Sunday, that will involve all of you...

Stay tuned!!

Adjunct: Yoga Love

I have several clients who are interested in yoga, so I thought I would write a bit on why I love yoga, as well as talk a bit about where I do it....

My job is standing-intensive. One doesn't realize this fully until you do yoga. :) In that sense, yoga is ESSENTIAL to my performance as a stylist.

I do yoga because it makes me aware of where my body is in space. It brings my consciousness back to the building blocks-- breath, muscle, movement, heart. When I finish with a yoga class, I carry it with me throughout the week. I remember to tuck my pelvis forward when my back hurts after a long day on my feet. I remember to slide my shoulder blades down my back to help my arms release and move better around a head of hair. I feel more grounded in my work; I breathe slower and deeper.

I also do yoga because I have found no better way to obtain and maintain strength. Using one's own body weight as resistance is an experience in intensity that working with weights and machines can't duplicate. The first time you truly feel your arm muscles engage in a pose like plank is exhilarating. I feel powerful as well as fluid.

I practice yoga at The Yoga Center of Minneapolis in the warehouse district on 3rd Avenue North. It is a lovely, airy, natural studio with a very calming and grounding atmosphere. I chose that studio because they offer a class aimed at larger women and men that is designed to keep the psychics of your body in mind when you go through poses and breath work. It's inspiring to see women of all sizes being so strong and flexible and graceful. It is essential in a yoga class to feel completely comfortable in your own skin, and being a bigger woman it is encouraging that such a place exists.

The Yoga Center also offers classes that range from deep meditation to the most vigorous of yoga flows. Countless workshops and events are offered, and the studio strives to really build a community out of its practitioners.

If you are looking for a yoga studio, I can't recommend The Yoga Center enough. Visit their website and look around-- you will most likely find something that speaks directly to you. :)

http://www.yogacentermpls.com